So you’re basically just putting a cap (or in this case looks like several) across +12v & common, like a DC filtering cap?
I’m confused what the switch is supposed to do; I can’t tell what J1 is supposed to be, either, let alone why there’d need to be a diode there.
Thread for random DIY-related questions
Moderator: Modulators
- crochambeau
- Merzwowow
- Posts: 670
- Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2019 11:21 am
- Location: Cascadia
- Has thanked: 270 times
- Been thanked: 198 times
- Contact:
Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
That's a power switch. I did not draw something up to answer your question, I simply grabbed a screen shot of an existing schematic in which I use the tactic I recommend. It happens to have more features than discussed in this topic because that's the way it's built.FAP wrote: ↑Tue Nov 11, 2025 8:30 am So you’re basically just putting a cap (or in this case looks like several) across +12v & common, like a DC filtering cap?
I’m confused what the switch is supposed to do; I can’t tell what J1 is supposed to be, either, let alone why there’d need to be a diode there.
J1 is the connector for DC input. The diode is there to prevent damage if someone plugs in a power supply of improper polarity. Test points are there so I can easily scope the rails in case something is sideways.
So yeah, the important bits are: main DC inlet has a capacitor, and each of the stages you want to prevent crosstalk have some buffering aspect like a resistor, followed by another capacitor.
Example: the circuit hanging off leg #1 is pulling on the power supply the hardest. In order for those ripples to reach the weaker circuit on branch 2, it must overspill the capacitor (in this case C3) which is "walled in" by the resistor R4, overtop capacitor C1, which is both supplied by the main DC supply AND "walled in" by R5 and overtop capacitor C4 before reaching circuit 2. This is a low tech method that will only really work in circuits that do not draw lots of power. It IS possible to drive a 555 hard enough that this low tech method may not be that effective. If you're heating up ICs, you'd probably want to use actual voltage regulators to keep the stages from controlling each other (though I would argue that if you're heating up ICs doing OSC duty, a redesign may be in order).
Anyway, here's a rough idea of how I employ this in my design. The different colors are the different branches.
This concept may work to address your issue. It may not. I may be throwing red herrings at you based on shit I've run into that does not apply.
- FAP
- Merzwowow
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2020 11:50 am
- Has thanked: 151 times
- Been thanked: 287 times
Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
Well herring or not, I always learn something new from one of your walkthroughs, so thanks for that! I’ll have to try it later.
If you’re curious, this came about from me trying to breadboard multiple LFOs, quick & dirty, for use to modulate another project. Eventually I ought to make a big box of these things but I don’t want to commit to the “whole package” just yet.
If you’re curious, this came about from me trying to breadboard multiple LFOs, quick & dirty, for use to modulate another project. Eventually I ought to make a big box of these things but I don’t want to commit to the “whole package” just yet.
- crochambeau
- Merzwowow
- Posts: 670
- Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2019 11:21 am
- Location: Cascadia
- Has thanked: 270 times
- Been thanked: 198 times
- Contact:
Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
Honestly, if this is breadboard behavior it might just be bad grounding or some flying wire crosstalk. If you've got a neat, relatively short wire layout and it's still misbehaving (or if you're wanting to lay out a PCB) building this stuff into it may be helpful, but I never trust breadboard to represent reality hahaha.
My pleasure, I'm happy if my rambling improves anything anywhere. Onward and upward!
My pleasure, I'm happy if my rambling improves anything anywhere. Onward and upward!
- FAP
- Merzwowow
- Posts: 672
- Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2020 11:50 am
- Has thanked: 151 times
- Been thanked: 287 times
Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
So good news bad news: I’ll start with the former.
Adding the buffering components to each ”stage” (more like “copy” but semantics be damned) did yield a significant improvement in crosstalk mitigation. As an aside, I had unknowingly applied a similar principle when I built the cacodemon last year, so in retrospect it makes sense.
That said, crosstalk wasn’t entirely eliminated and I imagine the problem only gets more pronounced with each additional stage added. I used 100ohms for the resistors and 10uf for the caps: would increasing or decreasing the farads result in better results?
If nothing else, I’ve gained a newfound skepticism of breadboards. It wasn’t too long ago I paid like 100 fucking dollars for one of these things hoping it’d be a step up from the boards I’d salvaged from college: turns out there’s a few spots that are bent out of shape on it, too. Quite frustrating.
Do you think this same crosstalk/coupling phenomenon would occur with op-amp based designs,!or is this something peculiar to timers like the 555?
Adding the buffering components to each ”stage” (more like “copy” but semantics be damned) did yield a significant improvement in crosstalk mitigation. As an aside, I had unknowingly applied a similar principle when I built the cacodemon last year, so in retrospect it makes sense.
That said, crosstalk wasn’t entirely eliminated and I imagine the problem only gets more pronounced with each additional stage added. I used 100ohms for the resistors and 10uf for the caps: would increasing or decreasing the farads result in better results?
If nothing else, I’ve gained a newfound skepticism of breadboards. It wasn’t too long ago I paid like 100 fucking dollars for one of these things hoping it’d be a step up from the boards I’d salvaged from college: turns out there’s a few spots that are bent out of shape on it, too. Quite frustrating.
Do you think this same crosstalk/coupling phenomenon would occur with op-amp based designs,!or is this something peculiar to timers like the 555?
- crochambeau
- Merzwowow
- Posts: 670
- Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2019 11:21 am
- Location: Cascadia
- Has thanked: 270 times
- Been thanked: 198 times
- Contact:
Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
Crosstalk is a feature of long, parallel runs. Could be the structure of the breadboard, could be long wires, could be poor grounding. Could be something else we're overlooking entirely.
Upping the capacitor value is worth experimenting with. You can also measure voltage across the resistor, that will give you an idea of how much sizing you can do there as well.
o-scopes are wonderful tools for sniffing around issues like this, as once you can see the ripple, or spike that is causing triggering elsewhere, snubbing it becomes a matter of trying different things and watching the scope.
Proximity of storage cap to the 555 timer may also make a difference, keep those lines short.
crosstalk and instability can plague opamps as well, the more gain you run the touchier things can be.
Upping the capacitor value is worth experimenting with. You can also measure voltage across the resistor, that will give you an idea of how much sizing you can do there as well.
o-scopes are wonderful tools for sniffing around issues like this, as once you can see the ripple, or spike that is causing triggering elsewhere, snubbing it becomes a matter of trying different things and watching the scope.
Proximity of storage cap to the 555 timer may also make a difference, keep those lines short.
crosstalk and instability can plague opamps as well, the more gain you run the touchier things can be.
- Indeterminacy
- Merzwowow
- Posts: 954
- Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2020 8:45 am
- Location: B-52D Tail Gunner
- Has thanked: 3 times
- Been thanked: 300 times
Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
Curtis points out what was drilled into my head over and over when I workedcrochambeau wrote: ↑Tue Nov 11, 2025 12:49 pm Honestly, if this is breadboard behavior it might just be bad grounding or some flying wire crosstalk. If you've got a neat, relatively short wire layout and it's still misbehaving (or if you're wanting to lay out a PCB) building this stuff into it may be helpful, but I never trust breadboard to represent reality hahaha.
My pleasure, I'm happy if my rambling improves anything anywhere. Onward and upward!
in Big Tech in the mid-90s. ( Token rings were fun btw and why did mainframes
use 400hz power? Made a lot for sense for mobile radar. )
Volume is a fantastic thing,
Power and volume - Pete Townshend
Power and volume - Pete Townshend
